Sup dawgs!?

I reilised a while ago that most of you dont know my latest revelation. So here goes-

I like surfing.

But it is more than that.

I want to surf every day for the rest of my life. I want to talk surf, walk surf, even EAT surf if I have to !

I went in october last year and it was like a lightbulb just went off in my head and it just felt so right. That was the happiest time of my life. I want to go back there, when I'm older maybe, and spend my life doing what I love.

I mean it is like your limbs buzz and tingle. A baloon expands in the bottom of your ribcage, forcing your heart and lungs higher and higher. you swung the board round and start to paddle. The wind is behind you, urging you faster. you paddle harder and harder. your arms cut through the cold water. The sun beats down on your back. Out of the corner of your eye you see the wave rearing up like a sea monster.


The wave rides up underneath you. You swim until your arms burn, but then wait .... no....

....There. You are in that amazing spot to the wave that you totter on for the longest freaction of a second, that makes you wanna live forever. The moment before you plunge down and the moment where you cant paddle any more because you have Caught The Wave. This second is long enough to release one sigh, one breath and feel good about yourself.

But then you are plunging downwards, and you tuck your arms and legs in and spring up. And then your falling, but being lifted up, and moving forward, and rushing back, and staying still all at once. You can hear the roar, and the rush and your heart singing with joy. You are blinded by the spray, yet all the colours are brighter than ever before or they ever will be again. Salt and air and water fill your nose and mouth, and you want to laugh untill you cry, or cry until you laugh but there is no time.

And it is the most amazing feeling in the world and I want to dedicate my life to the sport, by being a surf coach/professional surfer.

That will be all -

SheetaofthevalleyX